We spent six days on Crete in late September with a rental car: Chania's old town, the south coast around Plakias, a beach day in Matala and a last evening in Heraklion. We knew Crete was big. It's bigger than that. Here's the route we drove, where we stayed and what we'd do again.
West to Chania on the north-coast highway, back east and over the mountains to the south coast, then Matala and a last evening in Heraklion before an early flight. Our drive video is the mountain stretch down to Plakias.
51:47 · Daytime · the full drive, no narration
The road over the mountains from Episkopi was narrow and winding, through hillside villages, and most of the time ours was the only car on it. Then you come out of Kotsifou Canyon, the Libyan Sea opens up in front of you, and you descend into what feels like a different world.
Crete is huge. With under a week, pick a base or two and explore around them. First time? Start with Chania or Heraklion and rent a car.
One email before you arrive saves you from the maze of one-way streets in the old towns.
The sea is at its warmest and the crowds have thinned. Check Yr and Windy the week before and keep a rainy-day plan.
From Heraklion Airport it's about two hours west to Chania on a modern highway. We stayed right in the old town, a block from the Venetian harbor. We didn't give it enough time: Chania is worth several days if you have them.
We headed back east on the same highway and, just before Rethymno, turned south at Episkopi. The road climbs through mountain villages, runs right through Kotsifou Canyon and drops down to Myrthios and Plakias. It's the drive in our video, and it was a highlight of the trip.
Our base for the south side of the island, and our beach-hopping days: Plakias, Damnoni and Souda are all a few minutes apart.
On our last day we drove to Matala for a beach day, then carried on to Heraklion in the evening.
We ended in Heraklion on purpose, because we had an early morning flight back to mainland Europe. It turned into one of the best evenings of the trip.
Everything we'd tell a friend before they go: getting there, the rental car, parking in the old towns, the weather and how we pick beaches.
Fly into Heraklion or Chania, or take a ferry.
Easy to rent at the airport. Stay off the dirt roads.
Heraklion to Chania: about 2 hours on the highway.
Ask your stay where to park before you arrive.
Fine without a car, if you plan around the timetable.
September: warm sea, fewer crowds, some rain.
A little beach town in a sheltered cove with cliffs on both sides. The cliffs are full of caves, originally Roman-era tombs, that hippies famously lived in during the 1960s and early 1970s. The water was warm and calm, perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
From the highway and around the airport, Heraklion looks gritty and a little dull, but don't be fooled. The center is the opposite: a warren of polished stone lanes full of tavernas, cafes and shops, and one of our best evenings on Crete.
Narrow, winding and almost empty. We saw more goats than people. The interior feels more like the Alps than a Mediterranean island, until the canyon opens up and the Libyan Sea appears below you.
We didn't stay long enough. Next time we'd give it a few days.
We skipped it for time. It's a long way from everywhere else we went, so it makes most sense on a longer trip or if you're based in the west, near Chania.
Some of Crete's beach and mountain "roads" are closer to rocky trails. Take a rental car down the Balos road and you risk damage charges and losing your deposit.
We're beach travelers: we like to try a few beaches near each other, especially for warm, calm water to swim and snorkel. Our trick for choosing: look the beach up on Google Maps and search its reviews for "windy", "calm", "warm" and "clean".
Lively, with several tavernas, calm water and plenty of sunbeds. A few minutes from Plakias.
Calm, warm and sheltered by the cliffs. The big lot by the main beach was full by about noon, even in late September. Sunbeds were affordable compared with other Greek beaches; an attendant comes by to collect.
A small, sheltered beach beside the cliffs, close to Plakias.
The main beach, right next to the lively town of Plakias.
Right in the center of the old town, a block from the Venetian waterfront. Old-world charm and very friendly, helpful managers. We'd book it again.
Their website ↗Just outside PlakiasSarakina ApartmentsOn a hill overlooking Plakias, the southern beaches and the Libyan Sea, a couple of minutes from town. A wonderful place to stay, with a very friendly manager.
Their website ↗Heraklion old townThe Blossom CollectionA modern apartment near the waterfront, steps from the heart of the old town, with everything you'd want.
Their website ↗Not sponsored and not affiliate links. Just places we liked.
We rented a car for our trip to Crete, and this drive is the result. Tip: manual cars are the norm there, so if you'd rather drive an automatic, book early.
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Guided full-day hikes down the gorge to the sea.
The Minoan palace near Heraklion.
South-coast cruises to beaches and coves.
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